One of the many joys of living in Edinburgh is how effortlessly the city blends world-class culture with small, independent businesses that give each neighbourhood its character. From back-street boutiques, iconic record stores, and destination dining to they city’s atmospheric late-night bars – this is a curated guide from our Head of Design, Cara, to the places that make Edinburgh such a rewarding city to call home.
Independent Shops & Makers
In Tollcross, Lupe Pintos is small in size but vast in character. A long-standing favourite for hard-to-find international ingredients, it is as much about conversation as it is about food. The owner’s encyclopaedic knowledge, an exceptional liquor selection, and their much-loved cookbooks and annual chilli competition have earned the shop a devoted following.
On a back street just off Broughton Street, Joey D offers something altogether different. Avant-garde, punky and unapologetically individual, the boutique showcases one-off pieces made from reclaimed leather, tartan and skins. Each item feels personal, a reflection of Edinburgh’s creative undercurrent.
In Morningside, Thorne Records stands as a reminder of the enduring joy of physical spaces. Recognised as one of the top record shops in the world, it is run by a true music connoisseur. Browsing here is unhurried and immersive, proof that records really do make your life better.
Few shops are as synonymous with Edinburgh as Armstrongs Vintage Emporiums. With three established locations across the Grassmarket and Clerk Street, their stores are a destination for serious browsing. From archival one-of-a-kind pieces to coveted ’90s gems, Armstrongs offers fashion and accessories that span decades with ease.
Food culture plays an equally important role in the city’s character, and I.J. Mellis remains a neighbourhood institution. With shops on Victoria Street and in Stockbridge, it is a haven for cheese lovers and a trusted staple for all things fromage-related.
Tucked away near Summerhall, The Meadows Pottery is run by Junko and Paul and showcases a beautifully curated collection of glazed stoneware and porcelain. Thoughtful, tactile and quietly distinctive, it is an ideal place to find unique gifts, or something special for your own home.
Restaurants & Cafés
On St Stephen Street, Skua offers an intimate dining experience that feels quietly confident. A basement bolt-hole in Edinburgh’s Georgian New Town, the restaurant is noted in Michelin’s Guide for its creative, punchy food. Dishes such as smoked eel and St Andrews cheddar panisse sit comfortably alongside a cocktail list that invites curiosity, including the much-loved kimchi cocktail.
For something more relaxed, Alby’s Big Hot Sandwiches has become a firm favourite across Southside and Leith. Known for its ever-rotating menu of door-step-thick focaccia, freshly baked and generously filled, it’s perfect for a Meadows picnic or an easy stop after a visit to the play park. Simple food, done exceptionally well.
At St James Quarter, Ka Pao brings warmth and energy to the city centre. Fiery and fun, its Asian fusion menu is designed for sharing, with bold flavours and generous plates. Stand-out dishes include trout yellow curry, lamb shoulder, beef short rib skewers and corn ribs.
Beyond the city, Alanda’s Beach Fish Bar at Longniddry Bents offers a classic coastal experience. Giant battered fish suppers are best enjoyed alongside sweeping views back towards Edinburgh’s skyline, particularly as the sun sets after a day of paddle boarding or seal spotting.
Further along the coast, Drift Café sits dramatically on the cliffs at North Berwick. Known for its takeaway sausage rolls and traybakes, it’s a place to pause and watch for dolphins. With special evening menus overlooking the Firth of Forth, and a sauna and cold plunge for post-beach walks at the nearby Seacliff beach, Drift invites visitors to slow down and take in the view.
Drinks
On St Stephen Street, The Last Word is comfortable, quirky and quietly inventive. Run by a team behind one of Edinburgh’s coolest late-night spots, it is known for creative cocktails and an atmosphere that beckons you to stay. The Liore Valley, a pear and goat’s cheese washed cocktail, is a standout, and the bartenders are always happy to talk through the thinking behind each drink.
In Tollcross, Cloisters offers a very different pace. Traditional and unpretentious, it boasts a phenomenal selection of ales and whiskies. It’s a place for well-considered choices and quiet sessions, stepping back into a bygone era without trying too hard.
Places & Activities
Moments from Waverley Station, Fruitmarket Gallery is a free public space for contemporary culture in the heart of the city. Alongside its exhibitions, the gallery’s shop and café make it an easy place to spend a relaxed afternoon, with hearty and healthy lunch options available on site.
Beneath the streets of the Cowgate, The Caves offers one of Edinburgh’s most one-of-a-kind and atmospheric venues. Set within original 18th-century stone vaults, it hosts live music, ceilidhs and private events, creating a unique link to the city’s past.
On Dundee Street, Edinburgh Printmakers occupies a beautifully restored rubber factory and brewery. For over six decades, it has supported artists through studios, exhibitions and facilities, alongside bookable courses and workshops. The space is collaborative and inspiring, with a well-regarded shop for gifts and fine art prints.
In Inverleith, The Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh continues to evolve. With the Biomes Project nearing completion, the restored Victorian palm houses will soon reopen, offering visitors the chance to experience warmer climates and rare plant species. With free entry to the main gardens, it remains a much-loved space for families and quiet exploration.
To finish the day, Everyman Cinema at the St James Quarter offers a refined alternative to the traditional cinema experience. With comfortable armchairs, table service and a relaxed bar & restaurant, it’s an ideal setting for a city-centre date or a post-film debrief.
